In addition to that, are the (literally) hundreds of safes we use for storage of items. I've worked in a lot of places, almost all of them required the use of a combination lock to get in them. Thanks for all the Help and Responses Guys! I really appreciate all of the Love and Support from this Forum! I will let you guys now after it's fixed. The smith will be here tomorrow to "Fix" it. I'm quoted $500 for Labor and Replacement Lock. For All Those whoes even Considering this Brand just Walk away and spend a little more and get a Peace of Mind! And No More Digital Locks Either! I WILL NEVER BUY ANOTHER CANNON SAFE PRODUCT PERIOD. I've been screwed before but this one was just uncalled for. Told me I should call a Locksmith to get it openned and replace the Lock while I'm at all, of course this will be on my own dime as they will not cover any of this. The Lock only has 1 year parts warranty which is over. Supposedly the Warranty only covers Fire/Water Damage or some crap in that regard. I asked them about the so called "Life Time Warranty" and he told me to read the dam fine prints.
Told me if the Master Code won't work then I'm pretty much Shit out of Luck. Called the "Tech Support" today again and was pretty given the Cold Shoulder. To open the safe that has no bypass lock, look under the key pad area, underneath, there should be a socket there like a phone connection, this is an override thing for hotels to use, so what you need to do is get an old phone cable, cut the cables on each end, you should have two cables on each end, now you will have to prise The phone socket part out from the safe as far as you canwithout completely disconnecting the entire unit, so get a 6v batt from alarm system, or you will have to buy one, join both bare cables to the batt, and then put one cable onto the phone socket that you prised out, have a good look up into the section, where you prised this socket out from and in around the key pad areayou should see other wire connections, so the second bare wire you will have to try to hit one of those connections, its trail and error, but if you have the right connection at the phone socket part, and you make the other connection with the right cable joint behind the keypad you should be getting the power to the door lock, remember its trail and error, you will have to do this a couple of times to make sure you are hitting the right connection, its works I just solved the same problem on my safe, i hope this helps you. i plan on mounting the safe in my wall behind a portrait.
next step is to weld that hole shut, and probably reinforce the safe with more steel plates. thats when i really discovered how the red reset button and electronics worked. i proceeded to press buttons, and then the safe poped open. there was also the battey case, i slide the panel off and took out the batteries and put them back in, hoping the safe would reset. but there was were 2 wires plugging into the circuit board which went to the lock mechanism, by unpluggin and connecting those wires to +6V i would have been able to unlock the safe and the door swing open. not like i had an instruction manual, but if i did, i would have known to pressed the red button, punch in a new combo, and press A/B, then to open the safe, punch in that combo, press A/B and it would open so the electronics had a case around them, held in with 4 screws, i took them out, and jiggled the panel back enough to see what was inside, the panel couldnt be removed, becuase the lock bolts were holding it in. So looking into the hole, there was a red button, i pushed it, it beeped, but i didnt know what i was supposed to do.